## 摘要

The dispersion relation for a random gravity wave field is derived using the complete system of nonlinear equations. It is found that the generally accepted dispersion relation is only a first-order approximation to the mean value. The correction to this approximation is expressed in terms of the energy spectral function of the wave field. The non-zero mean deviation is proportional to the ratio of the mean Eulerian velocity at the surface and the local phase velocity. In addition to the mean deviation, there is a random scatter. The root-mean-square value of this scatter is proportional to the ratio of the root-mean-square surface velocity and the local phase velocity. As for the phase velocity, the nonzero mean deviation is equal to the mean Eulerian velocity while the root-mean-square scatter is equal to the root-mean-square surface velocity. Special cases are considered and a comparison with experimental data is also discussed.

原文 | ???core.languages.en_GB??? |
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頁（從 - 到） | 337-345 |

頁數 | 9 |

期刊 | Journal of Fluid Mechanics |

卷 | 75 |

發行號 | 2 |

DOIs | |

出版狀態 | 已出版 - 5月 1976 |