STUDY ON THE SPECTRAL MODELS FOR WAVES IN FINITE WATER DEPTH.

Spectral models for waves in finite water depths are developed based on an extension of the Wallops Spectrum for the deep water waves. It is found that for intermediate water depth, Stokes wave expansions offer a good approximation. In this case, the spectral function is controlled by three parameters: the significant slope, the nondimensional depth, and the peak frequency. For the shallow water waves, solitary and cnoidal wave models have to be used. The controlling parameters now reduce to two again, that is, the Ursell number, and the peak frequency. The resulting spectral models are designed with a specific emphasis on but not limited to the energy containing range of the spectrum. They offer a possible observational results from both laboratory and field snow good agreements.