Abstract
The probability density function and the first three statistical moments of velocity, acceleration and pressure of a gravity wave field, for points in the vicinity of still water level, are obtained taking into consideration the effects of free surface fluctuation and using the second-order Stokes wave model. These results reduce to those obtained previously by Tung using linear wave theory.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 594-600 |
| Number of pages | 7 |
| Journal | Journal of Physical Oceanography |
| Volume | 14 |
| Issue number | 3 |
| DOIs | |
| State | Published - Mar 1984 |