Observation of coherent turbulent structure under breaking wave

Zhi Cheng Huang, Shih Chun Hsiao, Hwung Hweng Hwung

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11 Scopus citations


Observation of the spatial evolution of turbulent structures in the surf zone is presented through quantitative measurements of the internal flowfields of spilling waves propagating on a 1:20 slope by Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). The global ensemble-averaged flowmethod was employed for turbulence decomposition by repeating the same experiment 25 times in each field of view (FOV). Seven FOV were integrated to represent the global results, which covers the breaking wave from the outer to the inner surf zones. Results showthat a relatively large turbulent motion is initially organized in the crest of the breaking wave in the bore-established region. As the wave crest passes, this turbulent structure will then stretch downward to the lower interior region of the water column. Turbulent convection and diffusion terms were estimated. It is found that the convection transport is very significant in spreading the turbulent structure from the wave crest to the trough region.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)15-22
Number of pages8
JournalInternational Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering
Issue number1
StatePublished - Mar 2009


  • PIV
  • Spilling wave
  • Surf zone
  • Turbulence
  • Turbulent transport
  • Wave breaking


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