Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations

Patrick J. Lynett, Tso Ren Wu, Philip L.F. Liu

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

315 Scopus citations

Abstract

In this paper, a moving boundary technique is developed to investigate wave runup and rundown with depth-integrated equations. Highly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations are solved using a high-order finite difference scheme. An eddy viscosity model is adopted for wave breaking so as to investigate breaking wave runup. The moving boundary technique utilizes linear extrapolation through the wet-dry boundary and into the dry region. Nonbreaking and breaking solitary wave runup is accurately predicted by the proposed model, yielding a validation of both the wave breaking parameterization and the moving boundary technique. Two-dimensional wave runup in a parabolic basin and around a conical island is investigated, and agreement with published data is excellent. Finally, the propagation and runup of a solitary wave in a trapezoidal channel is examined.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)89-107
Number of pages19
JournalCoastal Engineering
Volume46
Issue number2
DOIs
StatePublished - Jul 2002

Keywords

  • Boussinesq equations
  • Breaking waves
  • Wave runup

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