MASS TRANSPORT INDUCED BY WAVE MOTION

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Abstract

Two extreme surface conditions have been considered. The first case is clean water without any surface stress. The surface velocity tends asymptotically to the Stokes' classical expansion as the relative depth, kd increases (to the second-order approximation); yet M. S. Longuet-Higgins' solution becomes unbounded. The second case considered is when the surface is covered with a film that is incompressible to the tangential stress. Again the result is bounded for large kd and is similar to the first case except when kd is smaller than i. However, when kd is greater than i, the influence of the film is an additional term to the surface velocity of the magnitude of one-fourth of the G. G. Stokes' classical expansion.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)35-50
Number of pages16
JournalJournal of Marine Research
Volume28
Issue number1
StatePublished - 1970

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