A unified two-parameter wave spectral model for a general sea state

Norden E. Huang, Steven R. Long, Chi Chao Tung, Yeli Yuen, Larry F. Bliven

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

99 Scopus citations

Abstract

Based on theoretical analysis and laboratory data, we proposed a unified two-parameter wave spectral model as [Formula omitted] with β and m as functions of the internal parameter, the significant slope η of the wave field which is defined as [Formula omitted] is the mean squared surface elevation, and λ0, n0 are the wavelength and frequency of the waves at the spectral peak. This spectral model is independent of local wind. Because the spectral model depends only on internal parameters, it contains information about fluid-dynamical processes. For example, it maintains a variable bandwidth as a function of the significant slope which measures the nonlinearity of the wave field. And it also contains the exact total energy of the true spectrum. Comparisons of this spectral model with the JONSWAP model and field data show excellent agreements. Thus we established an alternative approach for spectral models. Future research efforts should concentrate on relating the internal parameters to the external environmental variables.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)203-224
Number of pages22
JournalJournal of Fluid Mechanics
Volume112
Issue number55
DOIs
StatePublished - Nov 1981

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